Awakening in the Mother Country

I recently visited Osaka and Kyoto for the first time in 10 years or so.  It was quite a different experience this time, as I went with my boyfriend, a non-Japanese speaker, and we were unguided and unhoused by a relative.  It was also the first time I've been to Japan since the passing of Dad and Grandma; together with my remaining Grandma's health concerns, being in Japan made me contemplate family, death, and culture a lot on this trip.  The reason for this blog isn't to get into my thoughts and reflections on this trip, though.  I just wanted to list our itinerary and any travel notes and tips for anyone looking to do something similar or for me, if and when I return to Japan in the future.

Day 1 - Arriving

• Arrived in Kansai International Airport in the evening
• Got to the train area, bought a 1000 yen Airport Express ticket to Namba, then used same ticket to transfer to the Midosuji line to Shinsaibashi Station
• Checked into the Hearton (in katakana, pronounced haa-ton) Hotel Shinsaibashi, then ate ramen at Kamukura nearby

Day 2 - Osaka Castle

• We realized that, for some reason, very few places are open before 10 or 11 in Japan.  This includes breakfast and coffee shops.  Since we couldn't find a breakfast spot, we walked around Amerika-mura for a while and waited for some family to get ready for a trip to Osaka Castle
• Caught subway to Osaka Castle (I think we caught the Chuo Line to the Morinomiya Station?)
• Strolled through Dotonbori and had desert at Pablo, which was great except for the rude lady who took our order -- matcha and berry cheesecakes with ice cream
• Walked to Tokyu Hands (they have just about anything you can imagine there) -- they also offer a 5% discount card if you show your passport
• Got about 5 hours of good sleep, then forced ourselves to sleep until 6:30 a.m.

Day 3 - Sakai

• Caught the Nankai Semi-Express to Sakai Ward (south of Osaka) in search of knives

After waiting in a line of women, we realized there are women-only boarding areas for the subway.

• Once out of the train station, we were a bit confused about which direction we were supposed to head.  Our rough Google map didn't list all of the cross streets, which made navigation difficult.  Luckily, we came across a couple of elderly guys who pointed us in the right direction.  We handed them some macadamia nuts from home to show our appreciation.
• When we were near the store, we got stuck again (again, it's pretty helpful to have cross streets on the map).  We came across an elderly woman, and I asked her if she knew where Konosuke Cutlery was.  She said it might be on the next street over and offered to walk us over.  Turns out she was right (We gave her some mac nuts too). 
• In a small building that looked like a house, we found the shop.  We said we were interested in buying a knife, and a guy who spoke some English looked surprised to see us but greeted us warmly.  He took us next door into a newer building, with a few knives hanging in a showcase on the wall.  He proceeded to tell us that they only had a few knives in stock.  We thought we'd have to wait about a year before we could get the knife we wanted, but he said he'd check to see if they had any of the particular knife left.
• In he came and told us that we were fortunate that they actually had one left.  What?!!!  After choosing a custom handle, we were offered a chance to watch the President of the company attach the handle.  Meanwhile, we chatted, and he showed us some magic tricks and had us shoot arrows he had fashioned out of a palm frond.  This was an incredible experience, and we felt so honored and lucky to have gotten the knife we wanted AND that these people were so kind and hospitable.
• Our next stop was the Knife Museum.  The President of the company offered to drive us there, since it would've been a 15-minute walk otherwise.  While in the car, he taught us some Japanese language oddities and analogies.  He asked about one phrase in particular that meant something like a good fit between people, similar to the way a saya fits a sword/knife.
• The Knife Museum was pretty great too -- there were a lot of different knives and scissors.
• After returning to Osaka from Sakai, we headed to Kuromon Market and tried some kobe beef and scallops

We found Doguyasuji (a shopping street where you can go to fully stock your kitchen with utensils, fryers, etc.), and I picked up some lidded teacups for Grandma

We were starving and walked through the Hozenji area, witnessing some sort of ceremony going on at the temple



We finally found a small, empty bar-like restaurant and had tonkatsu and a few kushi-katsu items with nama (draft) beer.

• Met up with family and thought Amerika-mura would be happening at night, but everything was closed.  Ended up having pizza at the Italian restaurant next to the hotel

Day 4 - Kyoto

• Caught the Midosuji line to Umeda, transferred to JR Kyoto to Kyoto station on the Special Rapid train (about 560 yen)
• Bought an all-day bus pass at Kyoto Station
• Headed to Kinkakuji before lunch and got stuck for about 30 minutes just waiting to turn up the road to Kinkakuji (Note:  It might be better to get off at Kinkakuji Michi stop instead of Kinkakuji Mae to avoid sitting in traffic).  This was a lot more crowded than the first time I visited this place.  It made for a pretty rushed, annoying experience this time, unfortunately.
• Nishiki Market to look around.  I scored some shin-cha (new tea) for Mom and Grandma
• Headed to Gion and ate kuzukiri then kitsune udon on the way into Gion

Day 5 - Kyoto

• Early start to get to Kiyomizudera by 7, which was perfect because there was no crowd.  We walked up and down to see a waterfall, some sort of shrine for good birth, etc.
• Took Keihan line to Fushimi Inari shrine, which also wasn't very crowded yet.
• We looked for the 1,000 torii signs and ended up hiking all the way up Mt. Inari!  This was a great hike, as it wasn't too hard, and the crowd thinned out significantly while on this hike.  Saw fox (kitsune) statues all over the place.  Apparently kitsune are the messengers for the kami Inari?  They like to eat fried tofu, which is where kitsune udon gets its name.  I think inari-zushi is also named for Inari and the corners are supposed to resemble fox ears?  This is what the Internet says.  It sounds good to me.  I buy it.
• Before heading to the hotel for a break, we visited Nijo-jo, which might be my favorite castle in Japan.  You get to walk around barefoot inside and hear the nightingale floors squeak under everyone's feet.
• Went shopping at Teramachi and Sho Kyo Goku (I went in search of fabric and got something small at Nomura Tailor House)



With all that walking, we were hungry.  Since we were near Kyoto Station, we wanted to check out the Ramen Koji but found a line for Ippudo.  We decided on an Italian lunch buffet instead, which was okay, except that buffet doesn't mean unlimited everything.  They let you choose one main dish, and the appetizers are buffet.  No wonder Japanese aren't as fat as Americans.

Dinner at Mos Burger, then bought some sake to drink while strolling around Gion at night

We happened upon Gion Kappa, which claimed to be the first izakaya in Kyoto, so we decided to check it out.  We were seated in the corner by the fryer, so it was pretty hot.

We got some sort of eel in a gel dish as our otoshi.  I tried to eat it but, being the non-seafood eater that I am, didn't really care for it.  At least I tried...

Day 6 - Himeji

• Caught an early train back from Kyoto to Shin-Osaka, then transferred to Namba.  We stored our backpacks with extra stuff from Kyoto in a coin locker at Namba Station, which was only 300 yen per day)
• We met up with our friends' relatives, who were taking us to Himeji Castle
• Caught the train to Motomachi, where we wandered around their famous Chinatown for a while then ate lunch at Aka-noren (fancy private, tatami room for our party, with good beef and tsukemono, etc.)
• Caught the train to Himeji Castle
• Dinner at a restaurant in Takashimaya

Day 7 - Shopping and Eating in Osaka

• Bought an all-day subway pass for 800 yen
• Caught the Midosuji line to Esaki Station to shop at Otsukaya.  There was a sale going on, but it was too hard to figure out what was on sale, so I ended up just getting a few things.  Most of the designer/cute prints were on cotton, so I realize now that maybe I should've been shopping for pretty prints for bags and other things and other types of fabric for apparel.  Too late now, but lesson learned.



I asked a local and found myself that Toraya, in Ebisubashisuji, is one of the best deals for fabric in Osaka.  Lots of 2 meter pieces of fabric for less than 1000 yen!

Since not too many other places were open yet, we headed to Tennoji and visited Shitennoji.  We discovered a Turtle Spa there -- tons of turtles were hanging out on these islands built in the middle of a pond.  They were so cute, sometimes struggling to get back onto the island from the water and vying to swim under the water spout.

Went to Kuromon Market with friends and did a seafood crawl.  I don't eat much seafood but had fun watching the boys pig out.  I did get to try some really good honmaguro (chutoro), though, and it didn't taste or smell fishy at all!  

What I did love was the daifuku with strawberry on the inside and chocolate powder on the outside.  I could've eaten 20 of those!

We ate okonomiyaki and negiyaki at Mizuno, in the Sennichimae shopping arcade, just off Dotonbori.  I liked my negiyaki, but I could've eaten more of it.

• Did Umeda Sky Building at night, but it was pretty disappointing.  There wasn't really anything like a garden up there.  It was quite a trek just getting there from the Umeda Station.  I'd say skip this one.

Day 8 - Iga

• Met family for the long trip to Iga, known as the birthplace of ninjutsu
• From Namba, took the Kintetsu line to Iga-Kanbe, then transferred to the Iga Railway to get to Ueno shi (round trip was about 4400 yen.  I was kicking myself because it would've been cheaper to get the Kintetsu 5-day pass for 3800 yen).
• We bought the 3-attraction package for about 1500 yen for the Ninja House, Ninja Museum, and Danjiri Museum, but by the time we got to the Danjiri Museum, the boys weren't very interested.  We weren't even sure what Danjiri was at the time.  I figured that it was a festival using floats, but we were in Iga mostly for ninja stuff.
• In the Ninja House, Kei-san gave us demonstrations of various ninja/shinobi hiding techniques.  She spoke English pretty well, which I was grateful for, lest I have to translate!  She showed us revolving doors, closet shelves that turned into ladders, and hiding places for valuable scrolls and other items.
• In the Museum, there was a history of ninja, clothing, weapons, family tree, communication techniques, disguises, and other things.  I hadn't done much research on ninjutsu, but I found it fascinating.  Since returning home, I've actually done more reading on ninjutsu and meditation.
• We watched a Ninja Demonstration, where two entertaining guys rolled a coin along the brim of an umbrella and threw shuriken, sickles, arrows, and other weapons with great precision.  For some reason, one of them asked me if I wanted to try the flute dart, and I agreed.  He put a balloon at the other end of the stage and told me to use the sight and just blow.  Surprisingly, I did it!  I got a sticker as a prize that I will treasure forever :)



My ninja sticker :)

Day 9 - Shopping

• Bought another 800 yen all-day subway pass and went around shopping for fabric again.  Serendipitously, we discovered that Daimaru, right across from our hotel, has a huge fabric store on the 13th floor or so.  I spent about 45 minutes in there and got some good deals. 
• Tried Ichiran Ramen because we had heard good things, but I wasn't that impressed.  The noodles were really thin, so it wasn't anything that spectacular.
• I had read about a Candle Night in Nu-Chayamachi, near Umeda, that was supposed to happen that night.  They were supposed to turn off all the lights and use only candlelight in this area.  There's also live music and art?  Anyway, we looked all around Chayamachi for it but couldn't find it.  When we asked a sales clerk about it, she said they had postponed it because of rain.  Darn!  Would've made for some neat pics.

Discovered the food wonderland of the Takashimaya basement.  I was in dessert heaven and sampled a few different desserts.

While exploring Amerika-mura, we had seen a sign with a picture of these premium pancakes from Gram.  They weren't open the first time we walked by, but we decided to check them out this time.  From what I could read on the sign, there were limited quantities made three times a day.  We happened to be there just after 6 p.m., which was one of the times listed.  When we ordered, we were told it would take 40 minutes, but since we had nowhere else to be, we waited.  I don't know if I've eaten a dessert so quickly before.  These souffle pancakes were wonderful.  We should've ordered two!

Day 10 - More Shopping and Departure

• We didn't buy another all-day pass, so we stayed within walking distance of the hotel.  Went back to Daimaru for fabric.  Went back to Toraya for fabric.  Had more food at Takashimaya basement
• Bought some tea for my sister at Yamaguchien in Kuromon Market, where they let you sample the teas and even give you instructions on how to brew the tea you purchase.
• Ate lunch with the boys at a small restaurant with cheap, good food (zaru soba, zaru somen, oyako don, etc.)
• Bought Nankai tickets for about 1100 yen to Kansai
• Said goodbye to Osaka

All in all, it was a good trip, full of good food and discovery.  I think this trip sparked an interest in certain things -- ninja, meditation, shokunin kishitsu, and Japanese language.  It was great that I got to practice my Japanese again, but I feel ashamed that I can't speak it better when I have so many people to practice with and such a solid foundation already.  I think I have a much greater attitude toward work, my sewing, my culture, and life in general.  Although I'm still jet lagged and don't feel very awake right now, I feel as though I was awakened and am excited to see what is ahead.